Amir of Ajmer

Arindam Sarkar 

The congested, labyrinthine lanes; the cacophony of devotees and shopkeepers; the din and bustle of hawkers selling colourful chadars, prayer caps and religious souvenirs on the narrow street; and the fragrance of rose petals and attar create a mélange of sight and smell before one reaches the tall and ornate Darwaza of the mazhar of the venerated Khwaja Garib Nawaz at Ajmer.

Ajmer Sharif is a popular religious destination of the Subcontinent. Some commentators however point out that luck did not smile on the Pakistani leaders after a visit to the Dargah Sharif. In 1988, President General Zia-ul-Haq visited the tomb (Maqbara) and in August that year, he died in an air-crash. Present Prime Minister Nawaz Sharif (as the then Chief Minister of Punjab province) accompanied Zia to Ajmer Sharif and was defeated in the general election.

Former Prime Minister Benazir Bhutto visited the shrine in 2005, when she was not in power and two years later, she was assassinated. Former President General Pervez Musharraf visited the dargah in April 2005 and soon after that his decline started and he was exiled. But such stories have not prevented the Pakistani pilgrims and millions of devotees to offer prayers at the dargah of Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti every year.

Seven ornate and majestic, outer Darwazas –with metal scanners and police pickets at the entrance – lead to the shrine of Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti. The main gate of the mazhar is called the Nizam Gate, which was built by Nizam of Hyderabad Mir Osman Ali Khan in 1915. Next entrance is called Shahjahani Gate built by Mughal emperor Shahjahan and then comes the Buland Darwaza, which was constructed with the donations of Sultan Ghiyasuddin Khilji who ruled Malwa, on which the Urs flag is hoisted to mark the beginning of the six-day annual celebration in May at Ajmer Sharif.

On top of the Nizam Gate is the Naqqar Khana (drum room) that houses two pairs of huge naqqars (drums), which were presented by Mughal emperor Akbar after his successful Bengal campaign. Inside the dargah, the musicians play these drums along with shenayias and nafeeries at fixed hours every day. “Khwaja Garib Nawaz was fond of music and used to go into raptures listening to it,” said a Khidmatgar.

During the Urs celebration at Ajmer Sharif, lakhs gather at the holy shrine to offer prayers, read quran, tie turban on each other’s head and hold prayers for peace, prosperity and happiness. Qul, which is the last day of the Urs ceremony, witnesses heavy turnout of devotees at the dargah. A major attraction of Urs is the Kalanders of Mehrauli. Known as the friends of Gharib Nawaz, Kalanders walk all the way from Delhi to Ajmer every year to offer colourful chadars, embroidered with gold and silver threads, at the mazhar and sing sufi songs.

Outside the mazhar, the roads have several eateries serving vegetarian and non-vegetarian food to the pilgrims coming from near and far and to those who after doing namaaz inside the dargah break their roja by taking food in the small food joints.

It is very common for tourists or pilgrims to be approached by a Khadim the moment they make their way towards Khwaza Moinuddin Chisti’s dargah. A Khadim assures a smooth entry and exit from the overcrowded dargah, help pay obeisance at the grave of Khwaza Garib Nawaz and give a commentary on the Sufi saint, his prophecies and benedictions.

Hazrat Khwaja Moinuddin was born in 536 AD at Chisti in Sistan (Sajistan), East Persia, in bad times. Muslim world was experiencing an upheaval. Plunder, bloodshed, arson and outraging the modesty of women were order of the day. Tartars were on rampage and the cities of Sistan, Neshapur, Mashhed, Tus and Khorasan witnessed unprecedented carnage. In 551 AD Khwaja Moinuddin, who from his early age began to show a religious bent of mind, lost his father Khawaja Ghiyasuddin Hasan. Soon, his mother also died and he became an orphan.

Both from the paternal and maternal sides, Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti traced his origin to Prophet Mohammed. With time, he came in touch with many renowned theologians and Sufi saints who taught him Islam and helped to develop his egalitarian religious philosophy and spiritual and mystical powers that made him the Saint of the Poor. His teacher and spiritual guide Hazrat Khwaja Usman Harooni said: “Our Moinuddin is beloved of God and I feel proud of the fact that he is my disciple.”

Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti’s patience, courage, fortitude, renunciation, self-abnegation, selfness and kindness won him admiration of his teachers, peers, commoners and rulers in his lifetime and after. The Dervishes he met at Badakhshan, Bukhara, Oosh, Seiwistan, Damascus, Baghdad and Mecca impressed Garib Nawaz who travelled extensively before settling down in Ajmer. It is said while Moinuddin Chisti was immersed in prayers at Kaaba and Medina, a voice told him to go to Hindustan and spread Islam at Ajmer.

Khwaja Moinuddinn Chisti reached Ajmer for the first time in 1191 AD. But since Rajput Raja Prithiviraj Chauhan asked him to leave his kingdom, he left the place. In 1192, he returned to Ajmer and left for Baghdad in 1200 AD. He again visited Delhi during the reign of Sultan Itutmish and after staying there from 1219 AD to 1223 AD, he permanently settled down in Ajmer. He died in 1229 AD at Ajmer and was buried at his modest home, which today is the holy Ajmer Sharif.

Dargah Sharif with its courtyards, mausoleum, mosques and gates is a classical example of Mughal architecture. In 1571, after taking possession of Ajmer, emperor Akbar visited the shrine on foot and built Akbar Masjid. One side of it is now used by the Dargah trust to run an Arabic and Persian school Moiniui Usmania Darul-Uloom to impart religious education.

On either side of the Buland Darwaza stands two huge Deg cemented to the floor. A mixture of rice, ghee, sugar and dry fruits are cooked in these cauldrons that are placed in front of the Saham Chiragh (Courtyard lamp) and distributed to the devotees as tabarruk. While the big cauldron can cook 70 mounds of rice, the smaller one can cook 28 mounds of rice at a time. During Urs, several Deg are cooked everyday for the pilgrims.

On the western side of the Saham Chiragh is the Mehfil Khana. It accommodates many people and is mainly used during Urs. For six days, Qawali is sung here from 11 pm to 4 am. The mehfil ends with a religious ceremony called Fatiha. Nawab Bashir-ud-Daula Sir Aasman Jah of Hyderabad built the Mehfil Khana iin 1891.

Another attractive symbol of Mughal architecture, built by emperor Shah Jahan’s daughter Jahanara Begum in 1643, is the Begumi Daalaan for the women of the Mughal harem who frequently visited the Dargah Sharif. The porch on the eastern side of the shrine has beautiful marble pillars. At one point, the walls, ceiling and pillars were all embellished in gold. The Dargah of Chisti is the Wakf trust that looks after the property and charitable works of this mazhar.

Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti preached Islam and harmony. Nearly 800 years after his death, his dargah remains a holy shrine for both the Hindus and the Muslims. Close to Ajmer is Pushkar, which is famous for the only Brahma temple in the world and a natural lake. Legend has it that Moinuddin Chisti visited the temple and prayed to Brahma that since there is scarcity of water in Ajmer and abundance of roses in Pushkar, his place of worship should not be denied of either.

The boon was granted. Even today, water of Pushkar is used to clean the dargah premises and roses of Pushkar are used for worshipping at the mazhar of Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti. And Ajmer Sharif stands as a silent witness to how Khwaja Garib Nawaz laid a strong foundation of Islam in 1192 AD here through his spiritual powers and peaceful preaching. 

DAILY CHORES AT DARGAH SHARIF

KHIDMAT

It is done at the dargah of Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti twice a day. It is first done for an hour at 4 am before the fazar prayer. With the call of azaan, the main entrance of the tomb is opened. Only Khadims are allowed inside the shrine to clean the mazhar and offer fresh flowers on the grave. Khidmat is again done at 3 pm, when pilgrims, except women, are allowed to stay inside the mazhar. Khadims offer fresh flowers, recite Fateha and offer sandalwood, which is also distributed among the devotees.

ROSHNEE

This is performed about 15 minutes before the evening prayer. With the beating of the drums, Khadims bring candles inside the shrine and recite Persian verses. Finally, the lamps are put in the four corners of the tomb and lighted.

KARKA

The closing ceremony of the tomb takes place an hour after the Isha prayer. According to the custom, a bell is rung five times and devotees are asked to come out of the shrine. Khadims then enter the shrine. The bell again rings six times, after the Khadims have finished cleaning the mazhar. The Qawwals then sing a special song called “Karka” and the shrine is closed.

LANGAR

The wheat porridge, which the Khwaja Baba used to consume, is served free to the pilgrims after the Isha namaaz.

SAMA

After Fazar, Magrib and Isha namaaz everyday, Mehfil-e-Sama is held in front of the mazhar, where Qawwals sing devotional songs on Allah.

MILAD

A complete recital of Quran takes place every day at Jama Masjid and Alamgir Masjid. Devotees keenly listen to the verses.